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The working file: https://easyupload.io/r6tf3x Ok, I will try to install windows.

Removed R1921, tried the original file, also clean ME BIOS, the same result. It just turn off. When you say working BIOS do you mean EFI that doesn't get board to turn off and it can't load osx?

Narek: I had searched and found out that 820-00165 EFI is interchangeable no matter if board is from 2015 or 2017. 2informaticos: I tried your file but the result is just the same. The board turns on and shuts off after 15 sec. This is strange.

Board 820-00165, 2017, 2,2 ghz, i7. Initial problem: fan spins about 15 sec and stops. Replaced U6100 from 820-00165, 2015, 8 gb donor board just to check if EFI could be the problem. Board turns on but of course never boots into osx. Then I cleaned ME region with Medusa 3 but the problem is...

820-01521 (Macbook air 2018) no sign of liquid spill. Customer said that it just shut off suddenly and wouldn't turn on again and that it was more and more warm with time before it died. Without battery connected it measures 5V and takes 0,40A for 2-3 seconds, then 0A and again 0,40A. With...

"Which area?" - See attached image PLT_RESET_L goes high, 3,3V. Measured every SPI Bus Series Termination resistor and everything looks fine. Tried also clean ME BIOS. Can it be bad SMC?

Hi, Came in with little bit corrosion on the upper side. Fan turns on for 1 sec, then turns on again for about 15 sec then turns again and it does't stop but no post. L7310/L7320 = 1,7V L7630=1V L7430=1,2V. Have tried another U6100 but all the same.

Ok, thanks. Will order it :)

Yes, they do. I send LB number, like 820-00840-A and serial number. It's about 15 pounds.

I looked wrong. It took 0.37A. Just replaced BIOS from a donor board before I read your post. It shows the image of apple now. I don't have BIOS programmer. Have to order reprogrammed BIOS chip from Ebay.uk. Thanks 2informaticos (y)

Hi, No sign of corrosion. 20V on both USB-C ports. 0,33-0,037A. Fan starts, but no chime, no activity on external USB or image on external display. L7210/L7220 0,9V which seems ok to me. Where to start?

Thanks for your help :)

Just measured the LVDS cable connector. It is pin 1 (EDP_INT_AUX_N).There is only 80ohm between pin 1 and the next pin 43 (PPVOUT_S0_LCDBKLT).

There is a pin burnt in lcd connector on lcd side and on connector cable. Replaced it and tried with test lcd but it's like it is not recognised. I'm thinking to lift U8510 and measure EDP_PANEL_PWR_EN. I can't se other ways to do it.

Water damaged. Ok on external display but blank screen on internal lcd also on test lcd. PP5V_S0SW_LCD 0V. Any idea?

I have checked in diode mode first :) It seems that replacing U7190 (P5V1) was the problem all the time. Now stable 5,1V at P5V1_CHGR_VDD and P5V1_CHGR_VDDP. U7100 doesn't get hot and the battery is charging. Thanks a lot for your help (y)

You had right. Pin 23 and 25 (CHGR_BOOT and CHGR_PHASE) are shorted (0ohm between) and R7121 and R7122 measures in kohm in stead of 20 ohm before. just replaced U7100 and after plugging power in measured 1,6V on CHGR_PHASE. Disconnected power and CHGR_BOOT and CHGR_PHASE again shorted.

Strange. Now voltage at F7140/41 is 4V. U7100 still gets hot. Resistance between pins 17 and 18 is 3,8 ohm. Resistance between pins 27 and 28 is 22,8 ohm. Pin: 1=0V 2=18,9V 3=3,4V 9=0V 12=3,4V 13=3,34V 15=0,067V 17=4,1V 19=4,99V 20=4,6V 27=20V

Hi, Came in with U7100 blown. Replaced it, Q7130, Q7135, Q7155 and R7105 (measured kohm instead of 20ohm) also. U7100 got warm so I replaced Inrush Limiter mosfets from a donor board (in this model there are 2 mosfets but in schematics it shows only one - Q7180). U7100 still gets warm. Measured...

Found out. I haven't attached the battery. Now I know it :cool: