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ok, I give up, I'm sure a pro could repair it, but it's not worth the effort. I tried to put a new CD3125 on and it didn't sit right, and while trying to remove it and clean the pads I got to aggressive trying to remove the solder from the pads and damaged a couple of pads. I tried bending some...

Is it possible to disable this cd3125 and its pair and just lose these two USBc ports?

All the other capacitors show a value in diode mode but this one? Shouldn't it show a voltage drop across the capacitor? I did find the other resistor I needed so I can attempt to put the U3200 back on. My SMD skills are terrible so I have little hope but gonna try anyway, it's the only way to...

ok, good news my parts came in, bad news I'm missing some so I still can't finish. But I have a stupid question. C3205 showed open so I assumed I needed to replace it. So I did. But it still shows open or OL on diode test. I can see ground on pin 2 of C3205 and I can see continuity between pin 1...

No, as I stated, I’m a complete newbie!

Any other spare parts I might want to order? I'll pay more in freight than the components.

ok, got the chip off, and pad cleaned up. But I lost resistor R3095 and capacitor C3205 doesn't show short, but it appears to be open. So I need to order those before I can continue. Any suggestions on best place to buy those? Digikey, Mouser I guess?

That makes sense that it's most likely the CD3125 that's bad. I do have a new one I could try and replace it. It will be my first one to replace with a hot air gun. I guess everyone has to have their first. I guess remove it and then check the caps again to verify?

Rest all look ok

ok, I'm back working on this thing, If I do a diode check on C3208:1 and C3205:1 they both read as ground. I guess I need to pull them out and verify they are bad out of the circuit? But I assume it's a pretty safe bet they are both fried? Should I assume the CD3125 is bad as well?

Ok gotta go work on something else for the next 2 hrs but I can work on it nonstop after that

Just did a diode check on U3100 and XB_LDOD and XB_LDO are both grounded.

I don't have a thermal camera, it would be nice, but I think U3200 is getting hot while checking out UB300 & UB400

Checking U3100 I get 5v on F3000, 3.376 on C3108, 1.796 on C3105, 1.802 on C3106 but 0 on C3104 and U3100 feels warm. Checking UB300 5.19 on FB200, 3.376 on CB308, 1.791 on CB305, 1.796 on CB306, 1.112 on CB304 but only 10.91 on QB300:1 and 7.5 on QB300:4 Checking UB400 same as UB300

Yeah I checked F3001 and getting 5.17 volts there, but at C3208:1 getting nothing now. I've checked these damn things at least 4 times and they have all worked but not now.

U3200 feels warm/hot to the touch now? I guess back to checking the USB-C's?

I put the board back in and plugged everything in. Now the left side USB-C ports only show 5.195 volts and 0 amps. If I try the right side USB-C ports it shows 19.87 volts and 0 amps? either way I try SMC bypass and nothing changes.

Cool, so I searched for ONOFF and see the SW5200 and looks like I can just short 1&2 or 3&4 and that will simulate the power button. So board alone on the desk, I assume you want me to plug in the USB-C charger and do the SMC bypass, what do you want me to check after that? Maybe PPVBAT_G3H_CONN...

I would assume you prefer that I don't reply with the previous question to keep things shorter? When you say SMC Bypass if you mean the SMC Reset, then yes I've tried that before trying to get it to boot. I didn't try to do that and take any readings, but I would be glad to.

Sorry I'm confused do you want me to reply so that it shows the question I'm replying to like this one, or just reply without it? Glad to work the board alone on the desk, I'm not sure how to do a SMC bypass but willing to try anything. thanks