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Does anyone know why I keep having sleep/wake issues with the new Airs. Sometimes it will think it's closed and turn off the screen and sometimes it will turn on automatically when it's off. I realize the "any key to turn it on" feature can make things weird, but this is going beyond that. Any...

Will do. Not looking good though. I'm not coming up with anything. Everything on Mouser is too big. The ones on the newer MacBook Pros are only 1.5mm wide. Everything I'm finding is 2.8mm.

thanks, yeah, i've used up all my donors so i just need to find a supply of new ones. unfortunately, everything on Mouser looks too big. the ones on the new MacBook pros are small. i'll keep looking. I should be able to find them somewhere eventually.

Of course, there's no problem following the trace. I'm not talking about issues fixing the board, I'm just trying to replace the sensor and I don't what it is because it's not on the schematic. Just trying to find a part.

Hi, thanks, the reason this part is so tricky is that it's not on the schematic because of that 8-ball mount. The 2016 and later Pros are the only computer I know of that uses the 3-pin version.

Thanks, that gets me a lot closer. There are about 375 results on Mouser under SOT23, any idea what other specs I might enter to narrow it down? https://www.mouser.com/Semiconductors/Sensor-ICs/Board-Mount-Hall-Effect-Magnetic-Sensors/_/N-6giy0?P=1z0z5laZ1z0z7pt

Anyone know how to get ahold of the hall sensors for the 2016 and newer MacBook Pro models? I'm going through them faster than my donor boards can supply. It's the chip with 3 legs vs the older ones with 5 legs.

Yeah, nothing. I'm convinced this has nothing to do with networking issues WHEN there was damage to the board. I think it's just an issue with the board that needs to be fixed. My patience for this issue is extremely limited. Letting this one go.

This had extremely minimal liquid-damage around U4200 and was booting to the update screen before we touched it. I cleaned up and reflowed U4200. It still just boots to the critical update page. Will boot fine in safe mode. Everything appears to be fully functional, but in safe mode the touch...

Yes, and it works fine on battery. Everything is truly fully functional, except that it restarts when plugged in.

Fully functional early 2013 MacBook Pro 13". Autostarts every time you plug it in. Not sure what to do with this one. 820-3462 Replaced R6920, C6900-02 and C6994 to get power flowing back in from the MagSafe. The computer is fully assembled with battery attached but it still autostarts every...

Yeah, that's why I never work on them. I only worked on this because it was an actual liquid-damaged computer. Some of them do actually end up working so it's worth a few minutes of my life.

I'm getting 20V on this board and PPBUS is 8.6V but board is not turning on. The board is pretty clean and the few components that looked bad I replaced. The one area that was hit right under the LCD connector is measuring the same as good board in diode mode on all the components. Not sure what...

This board had liquid-damage. Has 5V coming in with .20 amps of current. Has 3.3V on PP3V3_G3H_RTC. Has 3.3V on PP3V3_UPC_TB_LDO. Not sure where to go next.

No, but I'm almost certain it was from the Touch Bar circuitry on the board being damaged in some way. There are three scenarios where I see this Critical Update happen. One, is an SSD issue. Two is a battery issue, and three is a Touch Bar issue. This board was damaged at the Touch Bar...

Thanks, that got me there. Had some crud on the back of the connector on pin 47 that the ultrasonic didn't get. Wasn't getting voltage because of that. Working now.

Thanks. Turns out there was something very small in the connector that was keeping it from working. I found it once I looked under the microscope.

D6900 is good. Couldn't find D6901, 2 or 3. The USB port doesn't work for anything though, meaning it won't detect a drive or any device. It's like the port is not getting power on the one side. The USB power is just nonexistent on that side on my USB power meter.

It's just completely dead. No display at all.

This computer is fully functional other than the fact that the USB port only works when plugged in one way, but if you flip it over - no power or signal. No change when I try a known-good USB cable/USB. I'm stuck. Any ideas?